Guide complet pour créer votre routine capillaire personnalisée selon votre type de cheveux
Découvrez comment identifier vos besoins capillaires et établir une routine de soins adaptée pour des cheveux en pleine santé
Frequently asked questions
Identifying your hair type and porosity level is essential for creating an effective hair care routine. Here's a comprehensive guide to help you accurately assess your hair characteristics.
Hair Texture Assessment:
Start with the strand roll test using clean, product-free hair. Take a single strand and roll it between your thumb and forefinger. Fine hair will feel almost invisible and smooth, medium hair will have a slight texture you can feel, while thick hair will feel coarse and substantial. You can also compare a strand to a piece of thread - fine hair is thinner, medium is similar, and thick hair is noticeably thicker.
Hair Pattern Classification (1A-4C):
Examine your natural hair pattern when it's damp and product-free:
• Type 1: Straight hair (1A is pin-straight, 1B has slight body, 1C has some waves)
• Type 2: Wavy hair (2A has loose waves, 2B has more defined waves, 2C has strong waves with some curls)
• Type 3: Curly hair (3A has large loose curls, 3B has springy curls, 3C has tight corkscrews)
• Type 4: Coily hair (4A has soft coils, 4B has Z-pattern coils, 4C has tight, densely packed coils)
Density Evaluation:
Part your hair in the middle and examine how much scalp is visible. Low density shows significant scalp visibility, medium density shows some scalp through the hair, and high density shows little to no scalp visibility. You can also gather your hair in a ponytail - a circumference less than 2 inches indicates low density, 2-3 inches is medium, and over 3 inches is high density.
Porosity Testing:
The float test is the most reliable method. Take clean, product-free hair strands and drop them in a glass of room temperature water. Low porosity hair will float on top for several minutes, normal porosity hair will float briefly then slowly sink, and high porosity hair will sink immediately. You can also perform the slip test - run your fingers up a hair strand from tip to root. If it feels smooth, you have low porosity; slight resistance indicates normal porosity, and rough, bumpy texture suggests high porosity.
Additional Porosity Indicators:
• Low porosity: Hair takes forever to get wet, products sit on top, dries quickly, resistant to chemical treatments
• Normal porosity: Hair gets wet at a normal pace, products absorb well, holds moisture reasonably, takes color and treatments predictably
• High porosity: Hair gets wet immediately, products absorb quickly but don't last long, dries very fast, easily damaged by treatments
Product Selection Based on Your Hair Type:
Once you've identified your characteristics, choose products accordingly. Fine hair needs lightweight, volumizing products, while thick hair can handle heavier creams and oils. Low porosity hair benefits from heat and lighter oils like argan or jojoba, while high porosity hair needs protein treatments and heavier sealants like shea butter. Understanding these characteristics will help you build a personalized routine that addresses your hair's specific needs for optimal health and styling results.
Building an effective hair care routine requires understanding and implementing four fundamental steps: cleansing, conditioning, protecting, and styling. Each step plays a crucial role in maintaining healthy, manageable hair.
Cleansing forms the foundation of any routine. Different hair types require different approaches: clarifying shampoos should be used once weekly to remove product buildup, particularly for those using heavy styling products. Daily shampoos are suitable for oily hair types and can be used 3-4 times weekly, while those with dry or chemically treated hair may benefit from shampooing only 1-2 times per week. Co-washing (conditioner-only washing) is excellent for curly or extremely dry hair, providing gentle cleansing without stripping natural oils.
Conditioning is essential for moisture and manageability. Incorporate rinse-out conditioners after every shampoo, leave-in treatments for ongoing protection, and deep conditioning masks weekly for intensive repair and hydration.
Protection is vital, especially when using heat styling tools. Always apply heat protectant products before blow-drying or using hot tools to prevent damage and maintain hair integrity.
Styling should follow proper product application sequence: start with water-based products, followed by oils, then creams. The LOC method (Liquid, Oil, Cream) maximizes moisture retention by layering products in order of molecular weight.
Additionally, master proper detangling techniques by working from ends to roots with a wide-tooth comb on damp hair to prevent breakage and maintain healthy hair growth.
For Dry and Damaged Hair:
Wash only 2-3 times per week using sulfate-free, moisturizing shampoos. Focus on product types to use: deep conditioning masks, leave-in conditioners, and oil treatments (argan, coconut, or jojoba). Avoid: harsh sulfates, excessive heat styling, and over-washing. Apply conditioner from mid-length to ends, never at roots. Weekly deep conditioning treatments are essential.
For Oily/Greasy Hair:
Wash daily or every other day with clarifying shampoos containing ingredients like tea tree oil or salicylic acid. Use: lightweight, volumizing products and dry shampoo between washes. Avoid: heavy oils, over-conditioning at roots, and touching hair frequently. Apply conditioner only to ends and rinse thoroughly.
Seasonal Adjustments:
During humid summer months, oily hair types should use anti-humidity products and increase washing frequency. Dry hair needs extra moisture protection and heat protectants. Winter requires more intensive moisturizing for all hair types due to indoor heating and cold air.
Environmental Factors:
Chemical processing, hormonal changes, and pollution exposure all affect hair needs. Chemically treated hair requires protein treatments and extra moisture. Hormonal fluctuations may temporarily change your hair type, requiring routine adjustments. Hard water areas benefit from chelating shampoos monthly.
Application Techniques:
Always apply products to damp hair for better distribution. Use lukewarm water to prevent stripping natural oils, and finish with cool water to seal the hair cuticle.
Understanding hair care ingredients is essential for choosing products that will benefit your specific hair type and concerns. Here's a comprehensive guide to help you decode ingredient lists effectively.
Beneficial Ingredients to Look For:
Proteins: Look for keratin, silk proteins, and hydrolyzed wheat protein. These ingredients help strengthen damaged hair by filling in gaps in the hair shaft and rebuilding the hair's structure. They're particularly beneficial for chemically treated, heat-damaged, or naturally fragile hair.
Humectants: Glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and honey are excellent moisture-attracting ingredients. They draw water from the environment into your hair, helping maintain hydration levels. These are especially valuable for dry, brittle, or curly hair types that tend to lose moisture easily.
Emollients: Natural oils like argan, coconut, jojoba, and shea butter provide deep nourishment and create a protective barrier. They smooth the hair cuticle, reduce frizz, and add shine while delivering essential fatty acids and vitamins.
Ingredients to Be Cautious About:
Harsh Sulfates: Sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES) can be overly stripping for dry, colored, or chemically treated hair. However, they may be appropriate for oily scalps or heavy product buildup.
Drying Alcohols: Avoid denatured alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, and ethanol in leave-in products, as they can cause dryness. Fatty alcohols like cetyl and stearyl alcohol are actually beneficial.
Parabens: While generally safe in small concentrations, some people prefer paraben-free options due to sensitivity concerns.
Silicones: Dimethicone and cyclopentasiloxane provide protection and shine but can build up over time, requiring clarifying shampoos for removal.
Product Testing Strategy:
When trying new products, introduce one at a time and patch test on a small area first. Keep a hair journal noting changes in texture, manageability, and scalp condition. This systematic approach helps identify which ingredients work best for your unique hair needs.
Begin with proper scalp massage using circular motions with your fingertips to stimulate circulation and promote healthy hair growth. Focus the massage for 2-3 minutes before applying shampoo. Use the sectioning method for even product distribution, especially for thick or dense hair - divide hair into 4-6 sections and work shampoo through each section thoroughly.
Drying Approaches by Hair Type
Curly Hair: Use the plopping technique by wrapping wet curls in a microfiber towel or cotton t-shirt to absorb excess moisture without disturbing curl pattern. Leave for 10-20 minutes before air drying or diffusing.
Fine/Straight Hair: Try upside-down drying to maximize volume at the roots. Flip hair forward and blow-dry from underneath, lifting sections away from the scalp.
Thick Hair: Section hair into multiple layers for efficient drying. Work through each section systematically to ensure even heat distribution and complete drying.
Heat-Free Styling Alternatives
Consider braiding damp hair for waves, using foam rollers for volume, or twist-outs for texture. These methods eliminate heat damage while creating beautiful styles.
Protective Measures
Always use a wide-tooth comb on wet hair to prevent breakage. Sleep on silk or satin pillowcases to reduce friction and frizz. When using heat tools, apply a quality heat protectant and keep temperatures below 350°F.
Professional Maintenance
Schedule trims every 6-8 weeks for healthy hair growth. Incorporate weekly scalp exfoliation and monthly deep conditioning oil treatments for optimal hair health and manageability.
You should consider consulting a professional when you notice specific warning signs that indicate underlying issues requiring expert attention. Persistent hair loss is a primary concern - if you're experiencing excessive shedding that continues for more than a few weeks, sudden bald patches, or noticeable thinning, professional evaluation is essential.
Sudden texture changes without explanation, such as hair becoming brittle, coarse, or unusually fine, warrant professional assessment. Similarly, scalp irritation including persistent itching, burning, flaking, or unusual odors should be evaluated by a qualified professional.
If you've made routine adjustments to your hair care regimen but see no improvement after 6-8 weeks, it's time to seek expert guidance. Additionally, if you're experiencing hormonal changes such as pregnancy, postpartum recovery, or menopause and notice significant hair changes, professional consultation can help you navigate these transitions effectively.
Consider consulting professionals when undergoing medical treatments that may affect hair health, or if you have a family history of hair loss and want preventive guidance. Different professionals serve different needs: trichologists specialize in hair and scalp disorders, dermatologists address medical conditions affecting hair growth, and experienced hairstylists can help with routine care optimization and styling solutions for hair concerns.
Early professional intervention often leads to better outcomes, so don't hesitate to seek help when you notice persistent changes in your hair's health or appearance.